Craft Beer Can Learn From Western Mass

For the past several years if you measure success by volume, number of breweries, or fan-base size, craft beer is growing strong. I had an interesting chat at the 2015 Beer Bloggers and Writers Conference in Asheville with Jessica Miller of Hey Brewtiful about what that growth meant to craft beer and its bloggers.

Quick background

I grew up in a Tennessee suburb where as a kid I watched an army of national chains slowly absorb most of the mom and pop hangouts. I’m envious of people who grew up around here who can visit great places they knew as a kid. Local favorites thrive here because the community talks about them the same way Nanas brag about their grandchildren.

1. It’s Good For Brands When Bloggers Have Day Jobs

Like me most bloggers attending BBC make their living doing something else. I design and develop WordPress websites, but also build social media audiences and reach out to bloggers on behalf of clients. It’s something I enjoyed in California, but adore in Western Massachusetts.

strawberry picking in Hadley, MA
In Western Massachusetts CSAs are numerous. When buying local means a little hard work, people are all for it.

People here are vocal about what they love. If they blog they’re likely reaching as many people chatting at their day jobs. Those are the conversations that reach crossover audiences, people who weren’t already looking for information. A beer brand might not see the value of a blog run by a grade school teacher, but I read a hilarious re-tweet on Twitter from one who said,

“I hate to burst your bubble, but when the kids go home, we DRINK.”

So when it’s quitting time in Cubicle-Land people aren’t Googling for beer recommendations, they’re asking that girl or guy in the office who has tried every craft beer made within 50 miles of my desk.

2. Small Towns Can Support Great Things

People around here think of the entire Pioneer Valley as “local.” Greenfield is a great example. It’s not a huge town, but it’s supported local projects-turned-national brands like Real Pickles and Pierce Brothers Coffee. It’s currently rallying around new businesses like Artisan Beverage Cooperative and Lefty’s Brewery as they branch out nationally too.

Artisan Beverage Cooperative's Assistant Brewer Sarah Nolan gives a quick tour and a taste of their Ginger Libation from the tap.
Artisan Beverage Cooperative’s Assistant Brewer Sarah Nolan gives a quick tour and a taste of their Ginger Libation from the tap.

It’s easy to find those products in Greenfield, but you’ll also find them at the upscale Northampton package store Provisions or hole in the wall breakfast spots like The Roadhouse in Belchertown. No matter how small the town is around here, you’ll find local brands front and center, and local people talking about them.

Night Shift is a big name in Boston, but their distribution is limited. That doesn't stop specialty store Provisions in Northampton from driving a few hours each week to pick some up themselves.
Night Shift is a big name in Boston, but their distribution is limited. That doesn’t stop specialty store Provisions in Northampton from driving a few hours each week to pick some up for their store.

3. Skip The Pretense

Despite the fact this area churns out some of the country’s hippest stuff, the hipster factor of Western Massachusetts is minimal. Yes, I know millennials in the area living in hand-crafted yurts and others making their own limoncello, but they aren’t obnoxious. They’re curious go-getters who don’t think you have to be elitist or annoying to try things. The cooperative culture is a part of every community here, from the farm shares to magazine startups to freelance writers. We help each other, and the hippest thing in the world is people doing what they love. A brand doesn’t need to give away a promotional beard wax to get attention, just share what they love with their local fans.

Foster Your People

Grass roots advocacy is what gets brands noticed outside their home court. Passion is contagious. When outsiders see a town excited about a place to get tacos or beer or ice cream they want in on that. No matter where you are though there are bound to be bloggers living close to you that are excited about what you’re doing. Get to know your grass rooters. Even if their audiences seem small, the passion they have for the local scene is invaluable to brands who want to grow.

5 places to visit near Portsmouth

One of the biggest reasons we love being back in Western Massachusetts is that two of our favorite people live a couple hours up the road outside Portsmouth, New Hampshire. The entire area is quintessential New England and every time we visit our friends take us to cool places, like The White Barn Inn. We just got back from another trip and thought we’d share some food, drink, and merriment to be had up that way.

Ipswich_at_Spencer_Peirce
The “Thing” is one of 4 Ipswich Ale Tapmobiles. This 8-tap beauty is made from a 1965 Grumman Kurbside.

1. Spencer Peirce Little Farm

A calming and lovely spot to attend an event. They have regular games of Vintage Baseball and there’s other great happenings like The American Music and Harvest Festival coming up in late September. The line up of musicians includes amazing and under-appreciated Indie band The Accident That Led Me To The World. On top of it all most of these shindigs are accompanied by an Ipswich Brewery Tapmobile, restored vintage wheels re-purposed for the noble purpose of serving up great beer.

No Gloves? No Problem! Vintage wool uniforms and equipment in this "bare-knuckle boxing style" baseball league.
No Gloves? No Problem! Vintage wool uniforms and equipment in this “bare-knuckle boxing style” baseball league.

2. Hayseed Restaurant

A fab little brewpub on the Smuttynose Brewery compound. Instead of being directly attached to the brewery it’s got its own little house-like space and that makes for a cozy atmosphere. The food is far above many other breweries we’ve visited. There are lots of options for the vegans, veggies, and gluten-challenged in your party. Our last trip I had a Spring Stew that was packed full of vegetables and tofu in a coconut sauce that just happened to be gluten-free and vegan. The bar has two dozen taps that include the strange and wonderful Smuttlabs beers and a few cask-conditioned offerings to boot.

3. The Friendly Toast

A Portsmouth institution. There’s a location in Boston too that we’ve tried. The food there is good, but the whole experience is not nearly as much fun. At both location the portions are gigantic and the drinks are strong, but in Portsmouth the atmosphere is weird in the best of ways. It can feel a little hipstery at times (your waiter is sure to have tattoos, piercings, and/or Macklemore’s wardrobe), but they give good service and the food is consistently bodacious. Like Hayseed there are plenty of options for any dietary need. They serve all day, but this is the place for brunch baby! Prepare to wait for a table at prime hours.

4. Vida Cantina

The camera on my phone doesn't do this Pork Belly Confit Benedict justice.
The camera on my phone doesn’t do this Pork Belly Confit Benedict justice.

Our most recent discovery and another great choice for brunch. The cocktails here are inventive, numerous, strong, and expertly made. The Chupacabra was both our favorite with blanco tequila and agave atop fresh muddled chilis, cilantro, and lime. The whole concoction gets a vigorous shake for good measure. The food is great too. I had a Pork Belly Confit Eggs Benedict that was perfect and Molly had Chilaquiles which has 2 sunny side eggs, tortilla chips, Vida salsa, cotija, avocado, and crema. We already can’t wait to go back.

5. Breaking New Grounds

Coffee Break? If you’re in downtown Portsmouth there are several options, but this is my favorite. It’s a big space with plenty of tables inside and out. The baristas have their stuff together and even when there’s a line I’ve gotten my chai teas and lattes efficiently and expertly done. They roast the beans in-house and wherever they’re sourcing their dairy, thumbs up to the cows.

Woke up very early to get to Crane Beach to see the mythical Strandbeest, a retro-futuristic wind-powered robot by Theo Jansen
Woke up and got caffeinated very early to get to Crane Beach to see the mythical Strandbeest, a retro-futuristic wind-powered robot by Theo Jansen

If you’re spending some time in Boston or just live near there and want a lovely day trip, skip on up to the Portsmouth area!

The Alvah Stone

UPDATE

Our latest trip we weren’t super hungry, but Molly hankered for a delicious cocktail and we both wanted a nice outdoor spot to relax. The patio at Alvah is heavily shaded, which makes it perfect on summer days that get above 80.

the drinks

We tried 2 cocktails and loved them both. The first, a summer special called The Blue Ribbon. Apropo of the name this beauty won the Hitchcock Center for The Environment’s Battle of the Botanicals, whatever the hell that means. It had Ferrand Cognac, Jameson Black Barrel Whiskey, Becherovka, blueberry syrup, lemon juice, and was delicious. The other cocktail was The Sylvester- Fidencio Mezcal, Espolon Reposado, Aperol, grapefruit, lime, and agave. I love a good smokey mezcal straight, but have never been able to tame it appropriately in a mixed beverage at home. Alvah Stone succeeded where I and I’m sure many other more capable bartenders have failed. It was “just right” on the smokiness, and rocked every square inch of our palettes.

the “small” plates

Oh yeah, and we had a bunch of “small” plates that were generous and each superb in their own way. The smoke was the theme of our night apparently, with the Smoked Sorghum Chicken Wings. It wasn’t the first time we had the Broccoli with XO and Thai Chiles, and if definitely won’t be the last. We had The Cabbage Salad with lemongrass, ginger, chopped peanuts, fried shallots, and herbs. The coconut dressing was surprisingly light and the extra kick of spice was on point. Our favorite small plate of the evening was the Douille Dog, which came on a fresh brioche roll with pickled jalapeño and more of those fried shallots.

final thoughts on our recent visit

We can’t get enough of Alvah and hope they’re around for a long time. They’ve certainly bumped Montague up our list of possible towns to move as our house hunting adventures continue. The staff, as always, were as friendly as they were knowledgeable about their menu.

original review below:

We had fond memories of The Night Kitchen when we left for California a couple years ago, but once we got back in December of 2014 we couldn’t remember the food so much as the absurdly perfect setting. We heard great things about the new tenant, The Alvah Stone, and were not disappointed on our first visit.

We arrived early. We had reservations, but I wanted to check out the bar. The more upscale a place gets the more I like to get my bearings there. Maybe because that’s where I used to be so often when I was on the serving side of the white linen scene. The bar is where the pressure is off. You can take as long as you need to order food (or not order food at all) and you immediately feel taken care of in this “we’re entertaining at the country house” kind of way. The bar is where you get intricate cocktails made with casual-cool fanfare. It’s still fancy-pants, but it’s chill.

Molly had an Old Fashioned. It was pretty by the book, but got extra points for the ice globe that meant it wasn’t watered down at all with chipped ice. I tried the Spencer Trappist Ale and it was perfection on tap. We were told it was the only certified Trappist beer made in the US, so another few points for knowing your stuff. For dinner we had wine and a beer brewed for The Alvah Stone by Brewmaster Jack.

Alvah Stone Beverages

We moved to a window-side table overlooking the equal parts frozen and roaring river. This was the aspect of The Night Kitchen we remembered. The interior of The Alvah Stone has only improved upon an already gorgeous experience. The interior is rustic, but still elegant and charming without losing its grace. It’s James Bond on his day off fly fishing in weathered attire from Patagonia.

First Course

Alvah Stone Genius Salad

We started off with a Kale Salad that was inspired. Molly is usually not a fan of raw Kale, but Alvah Stone does theirs with a cured egg, pistachios, and quality aged provolone. Cured Egg? Yeah, we had to ask too. We got a good description from the bartender who essentially told us it turns an egg yolk into something like a dense cheese. Sauver has a simple recipe we can’t wait to try on everything. The salad was really my favorite thing all evening after the Trappist Ale.

The Alvah Stone Appetizers

We also had the Turnip Cakes from the “snacks” portion of the menu. They were solid, if a little overshadowed by the salad. We’d order them again if just for the delish Asian-inspired dipping sauce, but we’d definitely get them on their own so they wouldn’t have to compete with any other flavors. For all its bold ingredients (cilantro, scallions, sesame) we found these a little on the mellow side.

Main Course

Alvah Stone Amazing Ribs!

I was very tempted by the Sirloin special, but I’d already read the menu by the time I heard it so I had ribs on the brain. They were generously sauced in some house-made genius, but were surprisingly snug on their bones. I love getting down and dirty on some ribs, but like how cooked to disintegration messy meats are usually prepared in finer dining.

I had short ribs at Chez Albert a few weeks ago for example that I could have eaten with a wobbly plastic spoon. That’s not a complaint because they were yummers, just a heads up if you arrive in your Sunday best: you’re gonna work for them ribs, Hoss. My sides were across the board great: smoky cow peas, kohlrabi slaw, and some weird but great squash cake that was like an exotic cornbread.

Alvah Stone Fish

Molly had seared sea bass with blood orange slivers and what we think was daikon radish, but couldn’t be sure. It was cooked flawlessly.

The Afters

Desset at The Alvah Stone

I had a salted caramel custard with whipped cream accompanied by the cutest, crunchiest, chocolateyest cookies. Molly is still talking about the cookies, which had the slightest hint of Oreo if that humble cookie could be reverse engineered and greatly improved upon. Molly got a buttermilk pie that was as by-the-book as her Old Fashioned, but also as good.

All in all we found the experience great. The Alvah Stone seems to be straddling the classics and their own drive to be inventive. They’re doing both admirably, and we think a year from now, or two, those two worlds will be more seamless as they create some “old standards” of their own.

Amanouz Café

A tiny spot on Main Street that has some really great food. One of us always gets the Exotic Salad, one of several “hidden” choices that are only on handwritten signs on the wall. It’s topped with a little bit of everything, hummus, beets, tabbouleh. To be honest it’s never really the same salad twice, but it’s always good. From the menu you can’t go wrong with a tagine or bastilla (both chicken and veggie options are good). They also do a pretty fabulous brunch. Because it’s small it fills up quickly on weekends, so plan accordingly.

Artisan Beverage Cooperative

Ginger Libation Bottling
a local favorite since its first bottling, Ginger Libation helped create a national interest in this adult beverage of yore. They’ve also fostered a market for startups trying their hands at making old-style Ginger Brews.

Artisan Beverage Cooperative was born out of two established businesses sharing space in Greenfield, Massachusetts. Katalyst Kombucha has been rocking the naturally-fermented, probiotic world for a decade. Not far behind are the folks at Green River Ambrosia, who have been making award-winning mead and their signature Ginger Libation since 2007. In 2013 they merged the two companies and became a worker-owned cooperative. We chatted them up recently and they had some fascinating things to say.

Artisan Beverage Cooperative kegs
Ginger Libation is an increasingly popular draft choice in the area, available at The Roost in Northampton, Bread Euphoria in Haydenville, and numerous of our other local favorites

Do you think Ginger Libation fans are more typically beer, wine, or spirits drinkers?

We may appeal a bit more to craft beer drinkers, but we’ve also found a good reception from people that prefer wine or spirits. One of the nicest things that we’ve found with Ginger Libation is how it really crosses through these categories. An idea that we’ve gotten from a number of bartenders is how great it works as a cocktail mixer, so that’s one way spirits drinkers have become big fans as well.

ArtisanBeverageCoop-5

Has being your own thing in the world of clear beer/wine/spirits distinctions presented any problems?

The biggest obstacle that we’ve seen is that people just don’t know how great ginger beer and mead can be. We’ve tried to get around this by getting out with samples to as many tastings, events, and festivals that we can.

We’ve also had some issues in regards to the different tax rates that some states have in regards to wineries and breweries. Because we don’t use any kind of malt we’re classified as a winery, and therefore all alcoholic products we make are considered a wine. Some states have higher tax rates for wine sales. This can make places known for a good craft beer selection less likely to try out a unique product that’s labeled as wine, even if the product would fit well into their store and existing customer base.

ArtisanBeverageCoop-4

Do you think the market is opening up a bit now that other companies are making products similar to Ginger Libation?

At this point there are a few other breweries making old style Ginger Beers. When we first started making Ginger Libation we were the only old-style alcoholic ginger beer on the market. We knew that it was a good enough product that competition was inevitable at some point. To see it happening so soon is really encouraging. It confirms what we’ve been thinking since we first started- that alcoholic ginger beer has a huge market that’s just starting to be tapped.

ArtisanBeverageCoop-2

The original Ginger Libation was a gluten-free, home-brewing project for Brendan Burns. Is the gluten-free boom influencing your products?

Our kombucha, Ginger Libation, and mead have always been gluten-free, so it’s easy for us to keep producing products along that line. What we’ve seen change however, is the craft beer drinkers reaction to gluten-free brews.  It seems drinkers have gotten more adventurous in trying unique brews that might be gluten-free.

What new drinks do you have in the pipeline?

Right now two things that we’ve really been looking forward to is the return of our Local Libation and our Blueberry Libation. Look for both becoming available in bottles within the next 6 months. For Katalyst we have our hopped kombucha as well as a hibiscus flavor, both are only available at tap accounts. With our mead, the biggest thing we’ve been working on has been the branding. We’ve redesigned our labels and our mead will soon be available in 500 ml bottles.

Yeah, I got to try the hopped kombucha on my visit and it was awesome. What’s the best way to try all this stuff?

The best way for people to try out new things we’re doing is to come down to the brewery when we have an open house.  Usually about a month or so before the actual date we start announcing open house times on the Artisan Beverage Cooperative Facebook Page.

Most of your core team grew up in the area, do you have any advice for similar grass roots projects around the country?

One of the biggest things that is going to help is having a well-developed plan and financial estimates. Also, make sure you tap into the support of whatever community small business development groups that you have available in your area. We’ve been very fortunate to be based at the Franklin Country Community Development Corporation. Over the years they’ve provided us with technical assistance, bridge loans, financial and marketing consultants, as well as renting us brewery space.

Many communities have resources available for grass roots startups, and we’ve found that people wanting us to succeed and asking for support from the community goes a long way. Beyond that, the three biggest pieces of advice that we would give would be

  1. Expect things to take more time than you have been expecting.
  2. Expect things to take more money than you are expecting.
  3. Don’t let the knowledge of either of those things stop you from following your dreams.

The Black Sheep

Every good college town needs one of these, a bohemian cafe where you can get a sandwich, a coffee, and some free WiFi. The Black Sheep is convenient to downtown Amherst and has a lot of character. They use local goodies in their offerings and even host the occasional Senator.

My favorite sandwich is the East meets West, a sort of vegetarian Bánh mi with roasted tofu, carrots, red onions, lettuce, and a funky delicious garlic + peanut + hoisin sauce slathered generously on a fresh, squishy baguette. Their other sandwiches are solid too and all of them are available in half-size portions, which is nice.

The coffee drinks are good, but sometimes inconsistent from barista to barista. I’ve had lattes that were 75% coffee with only the most token splash of milk on top (heart attack in a cup) and I’ve had lattes that were the complete opposite, so much milk I couldn’t be sure there was actually a shot of espresso in there. I never mind too much though because the milk is local and delicious, they use local roaster Dean’s Beans, and the crew is super nice and always get the food right, which is why I’m there really. For a cozy, crunchy rendezvous with friends, this is the go to spot.

Blue Heron

BlueHeron_Exterior
The Old Town Hall was built in 1867 and is one of the nicest places to have a meal we can imagine.

I finally dined at Blue Heron for the first time about a month ago. Molly has been raving about the place since I’ve known her. I’ve no idea now why it took this long to try it, because it’s fantastic and we’ve already been back again. Wednesday nights the oysters are half price and there are a few additional small plate options thrown into the mix. It’s all the excuse we need to go.

Cocktails, Old School and New

We sat at the bar for each of our visits because both times we decided to go on a whim and there weren’t any tables. You absolutely need reservations for this place on Wednesdays. It’s probably a good idea most other nights too. The bar is great though, and the bartender, Paul, makes a mean cocktail. Our mutual favorite is The Summer Healer which is Basil Hayden’s Bourbon, ginger simple syrup, grapefruit bitters and muddled lime and cucumber. There are more than a dozen other options and we’ve yet to have one we didn’t like.

The Summer Healer on the left and on the right The Paper Plane, another bourbon cocktail with Amaro Nonino, Aperol, and lemon juice.
The Summer Healer on the left and on the right The Paper Plane, another bourbon cocktail with Amaro Nonino, Aperol, and lemon juice.

Small Plates & Appetizers

First, who doesn’t like sardines? I don’t. That’s who. So my endorsement of this little salad is that much stronger. Molly loves sardines and forced me to try these with capers and herbs on a sliver of tomato bread. Delicious! Something that pleases both the bold sardine lover and the timid alike.

BlueHeron_Sardines

Next we have another sometimes hard-sell ingredient: dates. How do you get the timid interested in those? Stuff them with absurdly good blue cheese and wrap them in bacon of course. It’s a frequent pre-meal treat in a lot of places, but The Blue Heron makes it their own with arugula and instead of the standard reduced balsamic they go with saba, which to me has a little less pinch and a little more sweet.

BlueHeron_BaconDates

Calamari is also one of those things you see on every menu, but here again we see a clever twist: chickpea batter, a yogurty tarator sauce, and what we’d describe as a baby Greek Salad give their tasty squid its Middle Eastern flare. You won’t want to go back to ho-hum marinara after this.

BlueHeron_Calamari

Mains

The Gnocchi is included in their small plates, but even a small portion of these little dumplings is a meal. There’s a different sauce each evening so you can indulge every time you go and still get something fresh and new.

BlueHeron_SmallPlates

The Coffee Spiced Steak Frites is fab, naturally, with a fierce compliment of red wine reduction and blue cheese that make the delicious house-made ketchup and aioli unnecessary. I found the tiniest whisper of the steak’s toppings made already good frites amazing.

BlueHeron_SteakFrites

Dessert

We’ve only had one so far, but it was superb. A tarte tatin made with local peaches topped with fresh whipped cream and ice cream. Molly has made many similar desserts at home so we could tell this had most likely spent little time out of the oven. We wouldn’t be surprised if desserts were made daily because the tarte was melt-in-your-mouth fresh.

BlueHeron_Dessert

An amazing new regular haunt of ours. Worth the trip if you’re even just passing through the area.

Brad’s Place

The first week we moved to Greenfield we were already delighted. Neighbors made a point of introducing themselves and welcoming us to the area, dog owners (at the amazing Highland Park) eagerly introduced Tula to their highly-socialized pooches, and local haunts like Brad’s Place made us feel right at home.

Just up from the Garden Theater, Brad’s is a no-frills greasy spoon with New England sensibilities. When ordering pancakes you have the default option of fake syrup, or true and delicious maple (for a little extra). The pancakes themselves are dense and generous, with a bit of buckwheat grit that let’s you know they mean business. They’re hearty, satisfying, and perfectly paired with sausage, ham, or bacon (I’ve tried all 3 in subsequent visits). Next time a nice over-easy egg will have to be added.

On out first visit, Molly had an off-menu egg sandwich on rye that was spot on and the waitress didn’t bat an eye or seem put off by the special order. The vibe in the place oozes neighborhood charm. I’m fairly sure we were the only people in there who didn’t know everyone else. Some people didn’t even seem to need to order, their coffee was waiting for them by the time they got from the front door to their seat.

Bread Euphoria

The Best Pizza in the 5 college area is at Bread Euphoria. Hungry Ghost has a great thing going with carry out, but if you want to dine in and pair a great draft, Bread Euphoria is the best place to go. We keep trying other local options in hopes of finding others worth mentioning, but so far the best we can say about those are, “Well, it’s a little better than Pizza Hut.”

The half dozen we’ve tried are not much better than a frozen Trader Joe’s pizza. That’s not to diss Trader Joe’s! We always have a few of them at the ready in our chest freezer. They’re perfectly good and fast. If you want your mind blown though, make the trek to Haydenville.

More than great crust

Bread Euphoria isn’t even a pizza place. It’s a bakery that offers pizza. I’d say it’s a no brainer that a bakery has kick ass pizza crust (it does, natch) but it’s the inventive genius of their specials that makes these pies worth the drive to us. Our favorite of all time came with peaches and stinky cheese. Might sound crazy, but the point to counterpoint of flavors was incredible. They did a peach one again this year that was stellar, though we did miss the stinky addition. They have conventional choices too, but whenever we see a WTF special we go for it. Trust them. No matter how crazy the combination sounds.

Local Draft

breadeuphbeer

Bread Euphoria isn’t a bar either, but they have 4 taps to choose from. They have an affinity for Berkshire Brewing Company and Ginger Libation, but the 4th tap tends to rotate regularly. A bottled beer is just fine with a pizza, but who doesn’t agree that a fresh-pulled draft is even better?

Sit down, kick back

Friday and Saturday they have table service, but the rest of the week you can still sit down and enjoy yourself. We never mind the deli-style back and forth. The picnic vibe is fine.

The food

We haven’t mentioned the salads? How foolish of us. Get one. And make sure if it doesn’t automatically come with their maple balsamic house dressing that you ask for it by name. We got a generous side of it with our salad and found it delicious with our pizza crusts. The main components are right there in the name. We’ve tried to recreate it at home and we’re about 90% there.

maplebalsamiccrack

Our favorite “conventional” pizza is the Prosciutto which comes with Prosciutto di Parma, carmelized onions, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, and garlic-oregano oil. Something worth mentioning is that when Bread Euphoria lists an ingredient they mean for you to taste it. They’re not just throwing around a dressy-but-meaningless word to make the pie seem more exotic. If they bothered to write it on the chalkboard, you will distinctly taste it.

pizzaperfection

The sourdough crust has a nice crunch and a fair amount of doughy play once you bite into it. We have no complaints. We do sometimes wish they’d apply their bread-making prowess to a thicker option, but that’s probably because Molly and I both could sit down and eat a loaf of good bread by ourselves.

I’ve already raved about the toppings, so we’ll let the photos speak for themselves. The only other things we’d mention are that this place closes relatively early (6 on Sundays) and is family friendly. Even on a quiet Sunday night with only a few tables there were plenty of kids there being kids. Maybe that just goes hand-in-hand with pizza places?

And oh yeah, that make pretty tasty desserts and hella good bread too.

Captain Jack’s

A no-frills greasy spoon run out of a shack on the side of Highway 10. We’ve made a few stops here despite it being a little out of the way for us, and it’s consistently good. They do a damn respectable lobster roll when it’s in season. The place is also adorable. There’s plenty of outdoor seating, it’s dog-friendly, and they keep the menu simple, have regular worthwhile specials (e.g. lobster rolls) and serve you quickly. We’ve gotten some tasty corn dogs and deliciously buried Chicago-esque style hot dogs, as well as a very respectable fish taco.

Everything is local and sustainable. So you’ve got that going for you, which is nice.

Coco + The Cellar Bar

Years ago it took us way too long to try Coco & The Cellar Bar in Easthampton for the first time, but ever since it’s become a regular need. Yes, need. Like one of those, “when was the last time we had sushi?” or “I’m dying for BBQ” kind of needs. This particular compulsion is exclusive to Coco though, for more reasons than I can probably explain.

But explain I will, because everyone must experience what this “patron saint of the Easthampton Dining Renaissance” (trademark) has to offer.

First, let’s talk about the staff

From the owners to the servers and bartenders to the full crew in the back of the house, everyone we’ve interacted with has been exemplary. We wrote this little review years ago, and now that we live in Greenfield we only get to Coco three times a year (according to my expense reports). The phenomenal thing is they recognize and remember us. They suggest things they know we’ll like because they seem to remember what we loved in the past. It’s British-Airways-First-Class type treatment. Between the people at Coco and the FedEx driver who loves our obnoxious dogs, we’ve decided we have to do Holiday cards this year, because we appreciate both so much.

Cocktails + Beer

CocoCellar_Bartender

Our first trip we met our friend Patty on a busy evening so it was pretty packed upstairs. Thankfully in addition to making some exceptionally-inspired cocktails, the full menu is available at the Cellar Bar downstairs. We like it so much we didn’t eat upstairs until a few months ago, always content in the cozy confines of the cellar. We love the open brightness of the main dining space, but there’s not a thing wrong with the moody lighting, exposed brick, and intimate low ceilings below.

The tap selection at The Cellar Bar is all craft and mostly local. I’m always happy to see Western Mass favorites and they regularly get top-shelf New England picks from places like Maine Beer Company.

Molly is all about the cocktails. Now that her favorite bartender left Alvah Stone (to work in construction? Please, come back!), the mixology game at Coco is the top of her list for best in the area. She started her long-term love of Coco cocktails with a bourbon-based special with fresh peaches and Cynar, and has yet to have a “just okay” drink there. She still fondly remembers The Coco Blossom, which had tarragon-infused white rum, elderflower, red apple syrup, and fresh lemon. Our most recent trip she had the Heavy Weather, which is mezcal, allspice dram, pear liqueur, and Falernum. I’m very anti-pear, and even I thought it was amazing.

The Food

CocoCellar_RibsPolenta

When we had dinner with Patty she had ribs with polenta and string beans. The ribs were fork-tender and the sauce was sweet, tart, and though not very spicy, was a keeper for sure. I thought the polenta was a perfect compliment to the sauce. Coco’s menu is usually only 5 or 6 entrées, but they always do something carnivore-pleasing like the ribs.

It’s worth noting we’ve been with friends with dietary restrictions. The FOH staff is very knowledgeable about the ingredients in everything being served, and the kitchen is accommodating if you need something off-menu to meet your needs.

CocoCellar_Noodles

My first trip I had honey miso noodles with greens, roasted chicken, carrots, and toasted sesame seeds. It was better than what I’d been craving, sort of a top shelf version of the Chinese Restaurant favorite appetizer of chilled noodles. The sauce was both lighter and more flavorful than expected, which was a theme apparently if you go by Molly’s dish.

CocoCellar_Salmon

Molly’s inaugural meal was pan-seared salmon with tempura sushi, cucumbers, and pickled shiitake mushrooms. I’m not a huge fan of salmon, but this was my favorite dish of the evening. The little tempura rice rolls were delish and the salmon’s light sauce was impressive: delicate but with a wide and dramatic flavor profile. The tiniest drop imparted so much to everything.

Our most recent discovery was suggested by the host, and now we dream of it weekly, papas veracruz. There’s something that sounds so simple about crisp potatoes, salsa macha, cotija cheese, roasted peanuts, lime crema, and cilantro (okay, maybe it doesn’t sound that simple) but it’s a journey of complex and complimentary flavors. We can’t for the life of us figure out what witchery is performed on the potatoes to make them so crispy and yet so elegantly flavorful and delicate inside. Everything they’re served with is fab, but if the tots flew solo we’d still be blown away.

We would be remiss if we didn’t mention one menu staple: the fried chicken. How can we improve on the phrase whispered over the table by every living soul who has taken a friend to Coco for the first time? We can’t, so we’ll just repeat: The chicken is to die for.

Commonwealth BBQ

Though still in Massachusetts, Commonwealth BBQ is not in the Pioneer Valley. We’re mentioning it here because it instantly earned a place in our hearts today driving back from a July 4th weekend with friends on the Cape looking for a quick, but good meal on the highway no-man’s-land of food. It’s near the outlets, but little else in the area would scream here is a damn good place to get barbecue. Usually a “restaurant” featured on a blue highway sign would not fill us with hope for quality or authenticity. Commonwealth had both in ample amounts.

We tried the pulled pork sandwich, the smoked chicken sandwich, the cowboy beans, the collards, and a stuffed jalapeño. Everything was flipping delicious, the portions were ridiculous, and stuffing ourselves was completely affordable. There’s plenty of outdoor seating and despite its size, they can obviously pull off catering, as evidenced by the large order they stuffed in a car while we had our lunch. There was even a wipe out of a full pan of cornbread in the parking lot and the manager pulled together a replacement on the fly. The only thing missing from the experience was a frosty cold beer, but Wormtown Brewery a few miles away in Worcester has you covered there. Well worth the stop, and we’ll certainly be back.

Cushman Market + Cafe

Because of its location we often forget about Cushman, which is a shame. Even when we lived in a few miles down the road it seemed out of the way. Every time we drove by on our way to take the dog for a jaunt around Puffer’s Pond though, we had to stop and get a latte. At least. They use local milk and the baristas are consistently great at crafting a perfect beverage.

Their Chai is also fantastic, if a weensy bit sweet. Other then The Roost’s in Northampton I would say theirs is our favorite. That’s saying a lot too, if you like Chai lattes, because Esselon and Woodstar also have solid offerings.

The pastries and breakfast sandwiches are dependable and often even exemplary. Brunch is nice here when they have live music. It’s a little chaotic on the weekends sometimes, especially once the kids are back in school, but in general we find they run things Swiss-watch tight. The little attached market is cute and handy if you need a beer or bottle of wine or oddball party favor.

Delicatesse

On the recommendation of a friend we tried this little breakfast and lunch gem in Shelburne recently and loved it. If you’re looking to dine in, be warned there are only 2 little tables and 4 seats at a bar hugging the wall. It’s little bigger than a closet, where you have to look around before taking your coat off or you might knock something off a shelf or hit one of the other 7 people eating there, but the food is glorious. I honestly can’t remember the last time I enjoyed a breakfast out this much.

I had the special, a rye crepe galette (yes, rye. amazing.) with prosciutto, arugula, sun-dried tomato, and the most perfect sunny side egg. The salad that accompanied it was well dressed and while good in itself, set off every individual flavor of the main course. Every bite was just perfect. Molly had Frisee Lardon, a salad with inch-long, crisp bacon pieces and two expertly poached eggs with some delicious toast. We can’t wait to go back.

The Dirty Truth

The Dirty Truth is a near-perfect beer bar with 40 taps, big tables, knowledgeable barkeeps, and above average pub grub. Our go-to used to be their duck nachos, mostly because they were delicious, but also because the portion size used to be totally absurd. You could get one order and stuff 4 people with it over drinks. Lucky for their food cost (but unlucky for patrons) those nachos, while still delicious, have scaled down to an appropriate size for 2 people. Which is fine, really. We want them to stay in business and the nachos of day’s past had to basically cost them money to serve.

Anyway. On our most recent visit we were impressed with how much they’ve upped their sandwich game. It can get a little crazy on the weekends (naturally) but Monday through Thursday evenings it’s one of the most pleasant places in downtown Northampton to sip something exotic (probably Belgium) or a craft brewery close enough to hit with a rock (please don’t throw things at breweries).

Congrats on them finally getting a website!

Elevation 66. El Cerrito, CA

twobeagle

If our recent trip to the Beer Bloggers Conference taught us anything it’s that there’s an abundance of great beer being made in this country. Here in California there are over 300 breweries alone, both large and small, and we’ve managed to visit quite a few of them in the last year. Our only complaint is that if they have a kitchen, the food coming out of it is not especially good. There are exceptions, El Cerrito’s Elevation 66 being one of them, but overall “pub food” hasn’t grown up with the beer being served with it.

Continue reading “Elevation 66. El Cerrito, CA”

Esselon

Local Mapleline milk helps make this one of the best places to get a latte or dirty chai in the Valley. The molasses cookies are the best among several great pastry offerings. It’s been a little hit or miss with us in the evenings, but overall it’s solid. Most everything on the menu will have you leaving happy. The benedicts and challah french toast are reliably delicious for brunch, and the tuna salad is spot on even if the salad that comes with most sandwiches is a bit ho-hum.

Flayvors

A close 2nd place for our favorite ice cream in the area, squeaking in behind Mt. Tom’s in Easthampton. It’s great for exotic flavors you might not have thought of before, things like asparagus (it’s really good actually) and lemon cream. You can even walk over to the cows and thank them for providing you with such deliciousness. Another place they shine is in their fruit ice creams: raspberry, peach, black raspberry, and lemon. We’re also particularly keen on “Sally’s Coffee Grounds” which is Coffee meets Cookies and Cream.

GoBerry

We’re probably kidding ourselves if we think frozen yogurt is any better for our waistline than ice cream. It does, however, have active yogurt cultures. What are those good for? Didn’t you see all those Jamie Lee Curtis Activia commercials? It’s good for your intestinal floral, the good bacteria that keeps your tummy happy. Top that bit of almost-healthcare with the wide variety of fresh fruit at GoBerry and we shave half the guilt off our frozen dessert. Our biggest reason for loving GoBerry though is that they use local Mapleline Milk and Side Hill Farm Yogurt, so whatever flavor you choose it has a distinct and wonderful tang. GoBerry has another location in Amherst:

  • GoBerry Northampton
  • 80 Main Street
  • Northampton, MA 0060
  • GoBerry Amherst
  • 28 Amity Street
  • Amherst, MA 01002

If you’re one of the owners reading this:

Hey, first, love your shops. Thanks for supporting local businesses like Side Hill and Mapleline. You rock. I think many GoBerry regulars would agree that Nutella is amazing and deserves a permanent spot next to Original, with 2 rotating flavors instead of 3.

The Green Room

Unique only begins to describe The Green Room in Northampton, a cozy bar breathing new life into crafted cocktails. Beer? They have a few. Wine? Sure. One choice of white and one red. Now let’s get down to business.

Mixed drinks.

There are dozens of varieties of house made bitters, 2 passionate mixologists-in-residence, and every conceivable liqueur (and liquor) you can imagine. This is the place Molly has been waiting for the entire time she’s lived in the area. We met Mike, half of the mixologist team, on our first visit and he made us 2 of the most delicious adult beverages we’ve had in ages. I didn’t know what I wanted, but with a few probing questions Mike produced an herbal rye cocktail with a hint of citrus that put the best Manhattan to shame. Molly ordered the Alpine Slide: gin, Chartreuse, lemon, bitters, egg white, and spruce.

They don’t have a website (other than Facebook) and despite being in the heart of downtown they’re still earning speakeasy cred with an exclusively word of mouth advertising campaign. If you live within walking distance, or have a designated driver, make this your first or last stop of the evening. And spread the word. We don’t want to lose this place.

The Hangar

It’s all so confusing! Formerly Amherst Brewing Company, local Wing-tastic bar ‘The Hangar’ took over the main space and now it appears Amherst Brewing Company is back as a not-so-silent partner. What the hell is going on? They feature ABC beer, but they also have tons of local and regional beers on tap curated by some wickedly friendly and helpful bartenders.

On the food front, the sandwiches are as gigantic and the wings are as solid as ever. They have a half dozen locations now, so check out their site for the one closest to you. Ours in Greenfield, to be honest, isn’t as consistent as the Amherst flagship, but we’re still loyalists. The biggest attraction in Amherst, the absurd number of taps, is absent in Greenfield, but it’s still a dependable and cozy spot. The service is great in all locations. Special shout-out to Amherst’s Operations Manager “Stoney” who is the best of the best.

Hope and Olive

We were always fans of Hope and Olive, but since we moved here last year it’s become our favorite downtown Greenfield restaurant to take visitors. It’s the perfect first night in town experience. The food is locally-sourced and consistently excellent, it’s close enough to walk, and the vibe is as personal as preparing dinner for friends in your own kitchen.

Hope and Olive feels like home

I think a lot of people in the area feel that way. I recently sat down with two of the owners, Maggie and Jim Zaccara. Together with their friend Evelyn Wulfkuhle the siblings opened Hope and Olive in 2007. I spoke with Jim about the restaurant’s history and what he thought contributed most to its unique sense of place.

The cozy charm of every table at Hope and Olive.

Jim is a familiar face to anyone who dines at Hope and Olive. “Basically, for the last ten years, I’ve lived here as much as I’ve lived at home.” His commitment shows. He’s usually the one to greet you at the front door and he still manages to somehow be everywhere at once as you dine. It’s not just that he’s on top of things. There are plenty of restaurateurs who work hard. What’s unique is that he and his staff make you feel so welcome too.

The Secret of their Success

Overall Greenfield is a sleepy little town. Despite that, Hope and Olive stays busy, every day but the Monday they’re closed. I asked Jim why he thought the restaurant resonated so well with people in the area. He mentioned the diverse menu, and reasonable price point, but what he said about his staff and overall philosophy captured it best for us.

“I like to hire people who are genuine personalities, who get excited about giving people a good time. I intentionally instill in the staff, be who you are with your customers, don’t put on a performance. That’s what I want when I go out. I want to have a real experience with people.”

Three years after Hope and Olive opened in 2007 its sister restaurant, Magpie followed. Magpie specializes in wood-fired pizza, creative cocktails, and delicious tapas-style appetizers. Before either of those two favorites though, the brother and sister team opened Shelburne Falls’ A Bottle of Bread in 2000. It remained a local darling until 2005 when it closed, sadly, after a fire destroyed its kitchen.

Their partner in A Bottle of Bread, Suzanne Hynes, continues to be part of what makes both Magpie and Hope and Olive special. You can catch her behind the bar at both locations.

The owners take giving back to the community even farther than serving farm to table

It was at A Bottle of Bread they held their first benefit, for Natural Roots Farm, a local cooperative in Conway. The event went over so well they held more. The tradition evolved into Free Soup and Game Night at Hope and Olive. These regular benefits are held the first Monday of every month but July and August, and help local nonprofits that don’t necessarily attract a lot of attention or funding. A core group of staff volunteer their time, and help source the list of beneficiaries.

Deep Restaurant Roots

Jim and Maggie’s restaurant history goes back even further than A Bottle of Bread. Along with their 8 siblings, the two grew up in the restaurant world of their father, who owned a Chuck’s Steakhouse in Connecticut. Chuck’s was a franchise born in the seventies, what Jim described as a Mad Men type place that boasts it invented the modern salad bar. The entire Zaccara clan worked there as kids, and the love of restaurants stayed with many of them after they moved out on their own.

In addition to Jim and Maggie’s two restaurants, one of their sisters owns The Wagon Wheel in Gill. If you haven’t made the trek, you should, it’s worth it for the homemade ice cream and ridiculously decadent signature pancake alone (check out the description on their site!). A 4th brother owns The Bull’s Bridge Inn in CT.

And the food!

All of the charm would be wasted of course, if the menu wasn’t as inventive and delicious as it is. While Jim is also a cook, Maggie attended the New England Culinary Institute and is the mastermind behind the menu. She isn’t your stereotypical tyrant in the kitchen though. The menu changes, “three, three and a half times a year,” depending on what’s in season, and she encourages input and ideas from her staff.

One of our favorites right now is a salad called the The Lobster Louie, a sort of Cobb-Wedge mash-up with greens, egg, avocado, pickled onion, tomato, green beans all tossed in house-made Russian. I also love two takes on classic Mediterranean dishes, a Fattouche salad and a kind of deconstructed Lamb Tagine that includes quinoa, roasted chickpeas, almonds, and a cucumber salad.

Check out some images of other great menu items at the moment.

The alliterative Blueberry, Beet, and Bacon Salad is Beautifully Brought together. (Bravo!)
The Lobster and Shrimp Scampi has just the right touch of fennel and a gluten-free linguini option.
The Zucchini Fritters seem to have a rotating cast of accents. Today’s menu says goat cheese and lemon-basil aioli (yum!)
Maple butter Scallops likewise get the occasional change-up. Shown here with strawberries, today’s menu pairs them with blueberry and watercress.
There’s lighter fare too, like this Turkey Reuben, and a small plate bar menu available.

If you haven’t tried Hope and Olive, we couldn’t recommend it more strongly. Weekends can get busy, but it’s well worth the wait. And don’t forget they’re closed Mondays. If you do forget, you can always walk a block over to Magpie!

Joe’s Cafe

For a delicious, if also often humiliating experience

This was my third trip to Joe’s Cafe, but my first eating there. They have a loyal following who don’t care if you like the place or not. There are 2 confusingly-placed doors that empty directly into the tiny space next to tables, no host, and lots of regulars standing around blocking staff and new customers alike. It’s total chaos.

The first two times there, we fought our way through the crowd to have numerous staff move around us while maintaining an impressive absence of eye contact. After 5+ minutes of that we left both times. If you took Hungry Ghost, Magpie, and Bread Euphoria out of the competition, Joe’s would beat every other pizza place within 25 miles without breaking a sweat. You’ll definitely have a sense of accomplishment if you eat here.

Once we had a table the service was excellent.

Why Julia Herz Is Our New Hero

Live from San Diego, it’s BBC14!

Molly and I are at the Beer Bloggers Conference in San Diego. So far, it’s been the kind of fun you would expect from an elaborately curated beer-tasting event.

We’ve tried a lot of good beer, and some really spectacular ones too. The thing that stuck in our brain the most after day 1 though was a talk given by Julia Herz. It was a feisty call to arms, sort of what I’d imagine a TED Talk would be like if Amy Sedaris spoke about why humor is so goddam important! (TED, Amy, Get on that.)

What beer can learn from wine

I work with winemakers a lot, both small production and large. I like wine, but beer is where I feel at home. One thing I love about the winemakers I know though, is their keen desire to educate. Wine advocates may be perceived as snobs from the outside, but they crack as easily as a good creme brulee, and love to bring people under the tent and guide them through the experience. Until Herz’s talk yesterday I never thought of beer as something that needed that kind of stewardship. Beer has always felt to me like it belonged to everyone. Cue Napoleon Dynamite: Idiot!

Beer quality at an all-time high

I had an interesting conversation recently with some wine folks about how it’s easier than ever in California to make really good wine. The problem is finding a way to let people know about it. Not too long ago you had to be careful, especially at the lower and middle price points, or you’d come home with wine you wouldn’t even want to cook with. Today though, the standards are high and the consumer is educated. Coming home with bad wine is a near-impossible achievement.

justbeer

The same is true of the beer scene. It’s not hard at all to find great beer. We pick up something new every week and though we have our favorites, we’ve yet to get anything we’d classify as bad. If we don’t love it, we always agree it’s perfectly drinkable and leagues better than mass-market crap.

Why beer needs bark

Sitting around with a bunch of beer bloggers and thinking about advocacy is weird. I don’t need to sell any of these people on beer. Bub Gourmand is as much about food and cooking as it is beer, and listening to Herz yesterday I wanted to smack myself in the forehead. I think a lot of bloggers probably felt as though Herz had slapped us on the forehead. Her message, to me, was that as beer bloggers we aren’t here to preach to the choir. We aren’t simply fans yelling with other fans in the bleachers. We’re advocates and educators, and if we’re not, we should be.

Our Venison Chili recipe, for example. We used beer to make it, and we ate it alongside beer. The pairing was natural and perfect. So why didn’t we say much about that? Because we figured pairings would happen naturally. It seemed as obvious to us as using a spoon to eat the chili. Just because we like certain foods with certain beers doesn’t mean everyone will.

Herz got me thinking about that post and others, and how ignorant that assumption was. If people go into wine shops with questions like, “I’m making fish/BBQ Brisket/poached kangaroo tonight, what wine would you recommend?” why not approach beer the same way? Seems to us that beer is often picked up for its own sake. Other than pizza and pretzels, what are we as beer advocates telling “non-beer drinkers” about food pairing?

Pitch your niche

I’m not saying every beer blog should be pushing food pairings. That’s just where we’re coming from. I haven’t met a single person at this conference though that feels like a competitor. Every blogger is bringing their own thing to the craft beer scene. Herz showed us all sorts of love, but pointed out that something many of us have in common, other than our love of beer, is that we aren’t necessarily welcoming the uninitiated. We have passion, and awesome content, but are we writing with those newbies in mind?

Herz said repeatedly to think before we push PUBLISH. I’m sure everyone proofreads and edits. We put in keywords, and headers, and all that other SEO-friendly, eye-pleasing stuff. But in the same way that we carefully choose what we say around children, do we think about those people drinking crappy beer, or who say they don’t like beer, or that they prefer cocktails?

That’s like a kid saying they hate vegetables. Bullshit kid. You hate broccoli or peas and a lazy parent has just let that take down the hundreds of other healthy alternatives. A good parent doesn’t force the kid to eat peas, they put the hundreds of other nutritious options in front of them until they find something that picky brat loves. Goodness achieved!

As beer lovers it’s great to celebrate the love with each other, but as the craft beer boom keeps booming, shouldn’t we be good parents too? the kids will love us for it!

The Lady Killigrew

Our favorite item at The Lady Killigrew is the Warm Brown Rice Salad. The name doesn’t make you immediately think delicious, but once you’ve had it you can’t think of it any other way. The dressing is perfect, the combination of hot and cold works, and there’s a secret ingredient we won’t disclose because it’s fun to try to figure it out yourself. I’m not telling you for another reason, along with the “that’s good?” name this particular ingredient ain’t got no business in a salad. But there it is and it’s wonderful.

Other than the salad they have 6 regular-menu grilled paninis and 1 special-of-the-day. We’re also quite fond of the Peanut Udon noodles, a staple in so many restaurants, but extra good here (I think it’s the beets). They have four taps and a few other beers in cans, respectable wine offerings, and surprisingly great iced teas.

They share the same picturesque location as The Alvah Stone, without the price tag. There’s a lot of outdoor seating for better weather and a killer bookstore attached.

Little Star Pizza. Albany, CA

sign

Not Just A Great Pie

Little Star Pizza is one of our favorites. Not just for the pizza, though we both think it’s the best Chicago style around (including Zachary’s up the block which we like, but don’t love). The decor in the Albany location is cozy and rustic, the draft selection is always good with a steady rotation of things to try, and the staff is the best. We’ve tried just about everything on the menu now and have settled into a regular rotation of preferred items.

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Magpie

Magpie is another one from our this-review-is-overdue list.

Magpie is the sibling of one of our favorites, Hope + Olive. You get the same rustic charm of an interior as it’s fancier counterpart, but casual. If Hope + Olive is the formal dining room, Magpie is the counter-top bar where you hang out in the kitchen. They bill themselves as a pizzeria, and their pie is definitely excellent, but they’re a lot more.

A respectable choice for Cocktail Hour

orange-twisted spicy Mezcal with little Rickey on the right.

The bartenders at Magpie are as inventive and knowledgeable as anyone. I’m a bit of a lightweight and I especially love the mocktails they come up with when I don’t feel like getting a buzz with my pizza. Our last visit I had a delicious Tamarind Lime Spritzer, a virgin Rickey I think I’ll call it. It was just sweet enough and was able to highlight its tart and tamarind goodness.  Molly had a smokey, spicy Mezcal cocktail with as much kick as our favorite margarita in the area, Mission Cantina‘s Tres Alarms.

Cold Soup. Why isn’t this everywhere?

Broccoli Rabe and Gazpacho with garlic toast

I started with their Gazpacho because I’m a sucker for cold soup and am totally annoyed more restaurants in the area don’t make it. The toast was garlicky perfection with the very traditional warm-weather staple. The portion was a little big, but I enjoyed every last drop.

Portions at Magpie are capital “G” Generous

Delicious Crispy Eggplant with a roasted red pepper sauce and melted parm

Sometimes we think they’re too generous. One of our first visits we ordered 4 “Starters” with our pizza and had to take most of the pizza home with us. Our last visit, if you count my Gazpacho, we had 3 starters and again took home half a pizza. That’s not a complaint because the prices are incredibly reasonable, but we want this place to stick around for a long time. With some of their Starters I’m not sure I could even buy the ingredients for the cost of ordering something like their delicious Crispy Eggplant.

Oh yeah, the pizza!

Fagioli!

Magpie’s crust is where it’s at. It’s thin with plenty of crisp and glutenous springiness in play. Their toppings range from more traditional to ultra creative, so Molly and I don’t have a shared favorite. Our last visit I won the pizza-choosing contest and we got Pizza Fagiloi with white beans, aged balsamic, arugula, and chopped tomato. I think this is my go-to for the foreseeable future, but Molly says she prefers the Pepperoni and Mushroom (with its caramelized onion under-layer). It says a lot about their crust that it can perfectly serve as a vehicle for something heavy or light.

But wait, there’s more

Magpie also does desserts right. It’s rare that we order them because we’re stuffed after dinner, but the occasions we have indulged (post indulgence) we haven’t been disappointed. It’s also worth mentioning they have ample entrees, regular specials, and outdoor seating that’s fun for people watching, a long bar facing the life going by on the street.

Enjoy yourself some Greenfield.

McCarthy’s Pub

This bar couldn’t be less pretentious and we love it. The draft selection always has a couple of good local craft breweries mixed in with domestic barley-water like Bud and Coors Light. The food is far more than passable pub grub. The wings are excellent and the burgers are very good, and cooked  how you ordered them. If you like them bloody, they’ll bring them to you that way. It’s a great place to catch a quick bite, watch a game, or gamble away your life savings on Keno.

Pro Tip: We’ve had a few misses when they’re wildly busy, so if there’s a lot of hustle and bustle you might want to stick to something difficult to overcook (like the wings or the “drunken” pastrami sandwich).

Mission Cantina

is one of the few restaurants that’s close to our new apartment. We were excited to move back to the Northampton area, but wanted a nice big yard for our nice big dog. It’s hard to shop for a new apartment on one coast from the other, but we managed to find a place in Belchertown we’ve already grown to love. The downside of course is that we’re not walking distance from great places to eat. The last time we lived in these parts we were a half mile from downtown Noho.

We were stoked when our friend, artist Scout Cuomo, introduced us to Mission Cantina our first restaurant meal back in the Happy Valley. The place is the epitome of charm and after our travels in Oaxaca earlier this year it was nice to see our new love for Mezcal will be well satisfied. We’ve already been back (twice) and we’ve only been in town a month.

Mezcal? Yes, Please!

I consistently order the basic Mezcal Margarita on the menu. There are several Mezcals to choose from, but I’ve been happy with the house-selection since our first visit. It’s awesome. I love that each bartender at Mission Cantina has their own style. The drinks have been consistently good, but always a little different. Molly likes the daily drink specials, and on our last visit fell in love with the Cranberry Jalapeño Margarita Special. I liked it too. It reminded us of our own Blueberry Jalapeño Cocktail from last year. It definitely had more kick that ours, and that’s not a complaint.

Queso Fundido, as much a requirement as a Margarita

fundido

Who doesn’t love cheese dip? It’s a guilty pleasure wherever you get it. Most places are satisfied with a steamy serving of cheese. Mission Cantina is hardcore about theirs. It’s got spicy bits of Chorizo cooked in and comes topped with fresh diced tomato, onion, cilantro, the works. And it’s all served up in a cast iron skillet so hot you could brand yourself with it. That last bit means that by the end of your Fundido, just like a sizzling dolsot bibimbap in a good Korean restaurant, you’ve got crunchy and caramelized bits. I spoon these scrumptious morsels onto everything else I order.

Keeping it simple

Mission Cantina does not have very extensive food offerings. The whole menu fits on one double-sided, letter-sized laminate, and one whole side of it is alcohol. What they do have is tight, and we especially appreciate that the taco section includes single servings. That sort of thinking allows you and a few of your friends the luxury of ordering, “one of everything” if you like.

The Tacos

tacos

I’ve had the Combo Taco Plate for all three visits and gotten a different combination each time knowing we’d be reviewing them. There are ten choices, and we’ve hit all but two. Here’s the rundown:

  • Grilled Chicken – quality white meat chicken that’s well charred without being dry. Subtle seasonings that still come through. Probably my favorite to spoon a generous scoop of Fundido on.
  • Carne Asada – dead on Asada if a little by the book.
  • Chorizo – haven’t tried this one yet.
  • BBQ Pork – the sauce on this was a teensy bit heavy, but the caliber of the pork was perfect.
  • Carnitas – This is my favorite. Like the Asada it doesn’t offer any surprises, but the A+ execution is really all you can ask for.
  • Braised Beef – close second to the Carnitas. Plenty saucy, like a beef stew taco. My favorite to take as leftovers because out of the fridge cold it’s like a good roast beef sandwich.
  • Grilled Shrimp – I’m not as huge a shrimp fan as Molly, but I’d order this one again. I prefer the Crispy Fish, but Molly gives the little crustacean her vote for tacos from the sea.
  • Poblanos Rajas – haven’t tried this one yet.
  • Vegetables – A generous mix that doesn’t leave you feeling cheated for not getting meat.
  • Crispy Fish – California is the land of the fish taco and we’ve had some incredible ones there. I like that Mission’s doesn’t seem to follow the West Coast beer-batter convention. The fish is pan-fried and plenty crispy, but without a heavy breading. This made the shaved cabbage and special crema of that particular taco shine.

 Pozolé Rojo, ¡Que Authentico!

pozole

I’m not the kind of foodie to complain about bastardized cultural dishes, but it is nice that the Sopa tradition of Mexico (ignored by most “Tex-Mex” places) is well represented at Mission. Molly had the Pozolé on her last visit and we both agreed it’s better than a cup of hot cocoa on a chilly winter evening. The broth alone would satisfy me, but the chunks of pork and stewed veggies make it all the better. The soup is hidden in their appetizer menu, but a large portion is plenty for dinner.

Mission Cantina is located at 485 West Street in South Amherst and is always busy. They will not seat an incomplete party, not even at the bar. If you go on the weekend you’re going to have to wait. During the week, well, you’ll have to wait but not as long. Don’t despair though, the Mission is catty-corner from The Moan and Dove. Put your name on the list at Mission and then skip across the road for a pint while you wait. You won’t regret it.

Mrs. Murphy’s Donuts

Their chocolate glazed was just written up in the Huffington Post as one of the 12 best donuts in the country, but every single donut they make is amazing. Molly’s favorite was the honeydew and mine is a toss up between the chocolate frosted and the strawberry cream. They don’t make too many varieties, so it’s possible to get most of their line-up in one dozen. Do that. Expect lines on the weekends, but if you’re crazy enough to be up before the sun Mrs. Murphy’s opens at 4 am.

Mt. Tom’s Ice Cream

Townes Van Zandt is the best songwriter in the whole world and I’ll stand on Bob Dylan‘s coffee table in my cowboy boots and say that.

Steve Earle

The Pioneer Valley has a lot of great ice cream, but Mt. Tom’s is the absolute best and we’ll stand on a table at Herrell’s and say that. If they only had one flavor, Burnt Sugar, it would still be the best ice cream in the area. You can do no wrong here. Try everything. They’re sure to have crazy flavors and they’ll even dazzle you with the basics. It’s decadent, but not chokingly over the top. Worth the drive if you’re not close by.

MassLive Write-up

The People’s Pint

The People’s Pint is long overdue on our list of restaurants to fully review. For now we’ll start with the fact that this is the home of our favorite ESB, Hope Street Amber. They do a damn fine job on their IPAs too. The kitchen has a smoker and they aren’t afraid to use it. The pulled pork is some of the best we’ve found outside of the south, and the smoked chicken chili is winter’s best friend.

you’ve never had a turkey burger this good. In a burger Fight Club, this sucker could beat Tyler Durden.

Molly loves me only slightly more than The Pint’s turkey burger, and I’m totally okay with that. Neither of us seek out turkey burgers, anywhere, because in most other places they are the sad, dry, tasteless consolation price for people who don’t do red meat. She tried her first turkey burger at the Pint because it was a special one night with add-ons we don’t even remember now. I do remember that neither of us could get past how impossibly flavorful and juicy the turkey was. It’s got a hint of smoke too, which might be intentional or might just be from it hanging out in that smoke-tastic kitchen. Either way, awesome results.

The Pint naturally has an amazing beef burger too, but it’s somehow less miraculous than the gobbler. They even have a crazy hybrid called the squealer with ground bacon in the patty that is wonderful, but still not top of the burger heap on the menu.

The Problem With Beer Festivals

Fridge Beer
What we happen to have in our fridge at the moment

Beer at Home

The average cost of a craft six pack is $10. There are always more expensive options. One of my favorites, Ballast Point’s Habanero Sculpin, is around $15 and last week we bought the variety pack, Petrus Sour Power, for $24. So we don’t mind spending more to get something special. We buy beer most every week because we like to have options in the fridge. The advantages are obvious: drink what we want, at our own pace, and at the end of the night we don’t have to drive anywhere.

The National Beer Bloggers Conference

Sierra Nevada Brewery Tour
The Beer Bloggers Conference included a private tour of the Sierra Nevada brewery given by founder and owner Ken Grossman

For the last 2 years we’ve attended the national Beer Bloggers Conference. The cost for admission has been $120 per person. For that amount we get beer, panel discussions, brewery tours, swag, several meals, and transportation to and from the various activities. It starts on a Friday and runs all day and night until Sunday afternoon. If you’re from out of town there’s travel and accommodation to factor in, but as far as the event itself goes the entrance fee has you covered.

Sierra Nevada Cookout
This lavish cookout was just one of several at The Beer Bloggers Conference. Other perks included the bus that shuttled us safely from one location to the next.

The WTF math of Festival Beer

Since we’ve been back in the area there have been several regional beer festivals. After reading up on them we’ve gotten excited about each one. Most of them take place on 2 day’s worth of evenings and feature 40+ local breweries. Food is on site and available for purchase. The events have all sounded great, but we haven’t gone to any of them. Why? Because the cost for these festivals is about $40 per person, per day. The per day part is crazy to us.

If I went into Spirit Haus and saw a six pack advertised for $10, picked it up and was then told at the counter that price was actually only for 3 of the beers, I’d politely switch it out with something else. It’s not the expense that would turn me off, it would be the deliberately misleading labeling. If instead there were several interesting “3-packs” advertised as $10 I’d most likely try them all.

Firkin Event @ The Foundry
A recent Firkin night at The Foundry highlighted local breweries, was priced per sample, and allowed the brewmasters to mingle with attendees.

Festivals get even worse

If you’re a vocal and passionate supporter of local craft beer you’d want to sample all participating breweries, but at these festivals that’s not possible unless you go to both nights of the event. Why? Because half the breweries are there one night, half the other. That’s like the hypothetical six pack above being a variety pack, the store only selling you 3, and asking you to return the following night (but only between 5pm and 10pm) to purchase the remaining 3.

If it sounds like I’m telling local beer festivals to go to hell, I’m not. You can’t insult someone who has spit in your face, taken your money, and walked away laughing.

To top it off festivals don’t seem to care about safety. Many people spending that much for one 4-hour day of an event are going to try their damnedest to get their money’s worth. Festivals don’t include any sort of transportation options in their admission prices. That means that if a person were to responsibly hire a car, go to both days of an event, and purchase food each evening they were there, the festival would wind up costing substantially more than a national, all-inclusive conference. That seems extremely exploitative to us.

Suggestions?

We think a beer festival should be about 2 things: getting great, hard-working local breweries the attention they deserve and providing a safe, unique place for local beer fans to enjoy themselves. I hope festival organizers make money for themselves in the process, but that can’t be the main point of these things as we feel it is now.

We have three suggestions:

  1. Charge one, low admission for the entire event and then sell a flexible quantity of drink tickets so that festival-goers don’t feel compelled to drink so much they can’t even see straight to call an Uber.
  2. Have ridesharing forums on festival websites.
  3. Have all breweries in attendance every day of the festival.

We’d love to hear your ideas too, so comment below!

The Roost

The Roost turns 5!
The Roost turns 5!

This past February restaurant owners Adam Dunetz and Robyn Goodmark marked the 5th Anniversary of The Roost in Northampton. It’s hard to believe it has only been 5 years when so much about the place has become a part of our regular routine. Molly and I think their ginger-drenched and maple-hinted Chai Lattes are the best in the area. We also love their all-day egg sandwiches, spicy chocolate snickerdoodles, the local taps, and the overall vibe of the place.

Goodies from The Roost
Goodies from The Roost

The Roost oozes personality, from the rustic decor to the eclectic tunes to the hipster-thrift staff. If someone were to ask me what Northampton, Massachusetts was like I would walk them through The Roost and say, “Basically this, times 30 thousand people.”

The Roost has a special place in my heart too as the last place I worked in food service. I manned the counter and espresso bar when they opened before spending a year in the prep kitchen. In the grueling world of restaurant work, Adam and Robyn were as good as it gets as managers. I chatted them both up recently about the last five years and what they see going forward for what’s now a local benchmark.

Bub: The Roost manages to be different in a town that already has a lot of unique bars and restaurants. What are your biggest influences on how you built and run The Roost?

Robyn: Adam’s wife Liz has an awesome shop on Market Street called Sticks and Bricks. She refinishes and repurposes furniture and housewares using reclaimed materials. Her industrial/modern/rustic aesthetic was a big inspiration. She helped us create a space where all kinds of people can come to meet, eat, drink, talk, play and enjoy.

cut-wine bottle light fixtures and cast iron custom shelving are just some of the accents Sticks and Bricks added to the atmosphere of The Roost.
cut wine bottle light fixtures and cast iron custom shelving are just some of the accents Sticks and Bricks added to the atmosphere of The Roost.

Adam: I was thinking about two things with The Roost: businesses I remember from living in Portland, Oregon and a European-style café. We wanted to create a community hub where people interact, eat good food, drink good coffee, beer, or wine, in a casual and comfortable way.

Bub: How much of what you learned opening and running The Green Bean helped shape what you were doing at The Roost?

Adam: You learn a lot every time you do something. The Green Bean was a business that I’d spent two years looking for a space for. The significant change about how I approached the Roost was- here’s this empty space, what would be the perfect thing to go in there? It might not seem significant, but when you’re committed to an idea that you’re looking for a space for, you’re basically jamming the idea into the space. When you see a blank space and let your imagination run wild, it’s likely you’re going to come up with a better fit between space and concept. Interestingly, opening up The Roost gave me a ton of insight into the Green Bean. It’s like you can’s see the forest through the trees, but the second you step outside, you see everything.

Bub: You both have musical backgrounds, did any of that experience find its way into how you setup The Roost?

Robyn: I spent the bulk of my time (about 10 years) after college running my own business, which was a touring band that involved managing and tour managing ourselves, running our own line of merchandise and recording. I learned a lot about keeping a lot of balls in the air. The Roost is my first real restaurant gig. Before we opened I went to work for Adam at The Green Bean for about 6 months to learn the basics and get my feet wet.

Roost Co-owner Robyn Goodmark.
Roost Co-owner Robyn Goodmark.

Adam: I’ve worked in food service pretty much as long as I’ve been working, but I spent a few years touring with a band too. I think there’s something about playing music that helps you see things differently, or gives you license to follow your own inspiration in creating a space. We weren’t trying to copy anybody in making The Roost. We dreamed it up, talked it out, and made it happen. I see music in that.

Bub: You host movie nights and game nights, any thoughts on live music?

Robyn: We opted not to make our space set up for live music since there are so many other places in town where you can go see bands play. We want people to be comfortable for the time they’re here. We want them to have meetings, write books, play games, watch movies; all while being aware of how many seats they’re occupying and for how long. We want to make The Roost a place with room for new customers to feel welcome.

Bub: What’s coming up for The Roost?

Robyn: Hopefully being here for a good long while. Continuing to make the job better for our employees, being able to provide paid time off and other benefits. Continuing to provide delicious food and drinks while supporting as many other local businesses and vendors as we can. Building our evening business so that The Roost can be one of the great night spots in town for beer, wine and dessert plus the fun of game nights, karaoke nights, movie nights and collaborations with local breweries.

Recent Tap Takeover by Brewmaster Jack
Recent Tap Takeover by Brewmaster Jack
Bub: You’ve already had a good bit of that. Can you tell us a little about your collaboration with Brewmaster Jack?

Robyn: Brewmaster Jack is a great local brewer, who lives in the neighborhood and was a regular customer from the beginning. We got to know him over the years and when he started his business we were happy to start carrying his beer. It always sold well, and got a great response from customers. It was fun to collaborate on a signature beer for The Roost and people have really enjoyed the Cock-a-doodle-brew. Not sure if we’d do something like that with anyone else, but we are open to ideas that help support other local businesses. We’ve already done a batch of “Tap Takeovers” with Abandoned Building Brewery and Fort Hill Brewery. We’ll be doing another one with The People’s Pint on the 29th of April.

Northampton regulars come home to roost.
Northampton regulars come home to roost.

Rustic Bakery. Larkspur, CA

lattes

Soon after moving here over a year ago Molly and I started going to Larkspur Landing on Sundays for Food Trucks. Off The Grid does a remarkable job of organizing these. There are different trucks every week, the quality of the food  is (mostly) stellar, and genuinely great bands often play on site. It’s a laid back party-like atmosphere.

Continue reading “Rustic Bakery. Larkspur, CA”

Saw Mill Site Farm

This isn’t a restaurant or bar, but we’re excited enough to mention it for Western Mass foodies. Saw Mill Site Farm has a line of horseradishes, and “Holy Root Vegetables, Batman!” are they delicious. We’ve tried the original, which is stellar, but it’s the beet variety we tried once and keep buying again and again. It is over-the-top excellent. It’s got all the bite of straight-up horseradish, with the tart, explosive zeal of the beet. It makes a humble kielbasa and cabbage dinner an event. We used to get ours at Atkins Farms, but they’re everywhere now. If you can’t find them in your everywhere, Saw Mill Site Farm does mail order too. Get some!

Share Coffee Roasters

ShareCoffee_FoggyMorning

It’s 5 o’clock on a Monday morning. Patches of fog blanket the valley. In an unassuming warehouse off Route 9 Ken Majka and Patrick McCaughey of Share Coffee, roast beans with meticulous precision, staring at monitors, calibrating and re-calibrating.

ShareCoffee_Probat

In an area with numerous coffee roasters, Share Coffee has a unique vision. They roast early, cool quickly, bag, tag, and ship to customers all within a few fevered hours. If you’re a subscriber you’re getting the freshest coffee you’ve probably ever had.

“We think of days off roast like hours out of the oven for fresh baked bread. With 2-4 days being perfect.”

Ken

Molly and I love coffee, but most mornings we’re happy with Trader Joe’s Fair Trade Honduran. We grind it right before we brew and at $6.99 have no complaints. It doesn’t blow our minds. It’s an affordable baseline. About every tenth time we buy coffee though, we indulge. Sometimes we’re rewarded with remarkable coffee, but just as often we return to Trader Joe’s feeling a little hosed.

ShareCoffee_ComfortAdventure

Not possible at Share Coffee. The team has no aspirations of roasting good coffee, and they don’t. They roast truly exceptional coffee. After several tastings I can tell you it’s like the difference between a decent burger at a diner and a cut of meat at a restaurant so tender and flavorful you want to cry like Jodie Foster at the end of Contact.

ShareCoffee_Ella

Share runs their joint sort of like a CSA, something their resident taskmaster Ella has done in the past. The main difference is that this CSA delivers. Think of it like Netflix for coffee. You buy a subscription and manage it through their custom online system.

The system was built from the ground up by programmer Gabriel Odess-Gillett. Share Coffee’s system communicates with the industry-standard software they use to run their tricked out roaster. Among other things this means information about each roast gets auto-magically fed to the labels.

The biggest plus is that the software allows subscribers to control when and where they get their coffee. Going on vacation? No prob. Log into your account and send your next bag to your hotel. Need to stop everything? That’s cool too. Pause your order until you get home. Feeling generous? Send a bag to a friend. Every week you have until midnight the night before a roast to make changes. You can even add a one-time bonus bag and the system will pro-rate it to give you the best possible rate.

ShareCoffee_ProbatRoaster

Share uses a Probat Roaster from the late 50’s. Unless you’re a roaster that shouldn’t mean anything to you. For the rest of us it’s enough to say they don’t make them like this anymore. It’s cast iron in all the right places which both imparts flavor and maintains heat. Ken sourced the beast in Poland and had it refurbished, modernized, and shipped to the States.

“It’s like having a vintage 69 mustang that can outperform a brand new Porsche 911. Originally one big motor ran everything, and you had to pull a lever to shift the motor from one task to the next.”

Ken

Share had that old workhorse removed and replaced it with 4 distinct motors to handle each stage of the roasting process. The quad upgrade allows seamless transitions without even a millisecond of downtime. The beans are heated to around 400 degrees, roasted for between 9.5 and 11 minutes and then rapidly cooled to 100 degrees in mere minutes. It means the freshly roasted beans are able to be bagged almost immediately, before oxygen can rob a molecule of flavor.

ShareCoffee_PerfectRoast

The roaster can roast up to 50 pounds of coffee at a time, but Share keeps their batches no more than half that size. The morning I was there they roasted 125 pounds of coffee in 12-pound batches. The smaller batches are more evenly roasted and result in flavor profiles that are both more consistent and more complex.

“It’s sort of like a cookie. You know the cookie that’s crisp on the outside, but chewy and perfect in the center? Compare that to an overly processed, shelf-safe for years cookie that crumbles in your hands and has no flavor.”

Ken
ShareCoffee_Growlers

Share is bringing coffee culture to a whole new level for this area. This part of the grand scheme has a lot to do with Patrick, who got his start on this ride studying sustainable agriculture at UMass. When he left that he spent some time in the Bay Area where he found coffee culture to be more developed. The foundation was here he felt for that kind of experience.

“Craft beer has done a lot for coffee. The whole farm to table idea too. Quality and locality are important to people like never before. That only helps specialty coffee.”

Patrick

And that’s the niche Share is likely to support. It’s one that a lot of people might not even realize they want, but only because they haven’t thought to apply that farm to table mentality to their coffee. Patrick seemed to think it was a connection that was overdue. After a tasting I think anyone would agree.

ShareCoffee_NitroIcedCoffee

But you don’t have to take my word for any of this. Go see for yourself. Their tasting room is open Monday through Friday, from 8AM to noon. You can get single origin espresso shots, Nitro Cold Brew, conventionally brewed, or if you have some time do a cupping with one of the owners. It’s a guided tour of all their coffees, roasted that morning. Sort of like a flight of beer if you could share it with the brewer. We think you’ll agree these intrepid coffee gurus are a welcome addition to the area.

Tart Baking Company

Like many locals, we were sad to see Bakery Normand close. It was a great little place to get brioche. We took our time, almost out of mourning, before we tried Tart. Now we wish we’d gotten there sooner. The pastries here are spot on. Molly is thrilled to see savory hand pies, and I’m pretty stoked to have knish back in my life. The greatest discovery from this joint though is espresso + tonic. I know, I was skeptical at first too. Lemon tonic no less, but after the shock of the first sip we were both hooked.

Tipping Well For Bad Service

Recently we dined at a restaurant we’ve been meaning to try for awhile and most everything about the experience was awful. We won’t be naming names, but it did spark an interesting conversation between Molly and I over how tipping should go after you’ve had an across-the-board disaster.

Restaurants. A Great Place For Young Folks To Work

I spent 15 years working at least part time in restaurants. It’s what gave me my appreciation of great food, the experience of dining out, and the desire for those in my care to enjoy themselves. I could never do it again. The pay is horrible, but mostly it’s the treatment you get as a restaurant staffer – which is, nearly without exception, insufferable.

Hungry People Behaving Badly

Restaurant dining brings out the worst in many otherwise civilized people. They’re sort of like polar bears. Super cute right? But have you ever seen footage of a polar bear ripping a seal apart? It’s not cute. In my experience there’s a polar bear inside of roughly one third of diners. All it needs to come out is the tiniest tinge of impatience or hunger.

polarbear-1

No matter how upset these polar bears gets in any other professional relationship I’d be willing to bet they’d never dream of treating anyone as poorly as they do their servers. For the smallest amount of cash, these polar bears think they’ve purchased the right to degrade their server as much as they like.

When you have to deal with a surly or unresponsive server it probably isn’t because they’re jerks. The vast majority of restaurant folk are just trying to avoid getting eaten alive by a polar bear.

But what about when the service sucks?

If a server is extremely busy and knows they can’t give everyone the best service, triage begins. The higher the check and the lower the level of time needed to attend to someone determines who gets the attention first. If you’re getting bad service it’s probably for one or more of the following 3 reasons:

  • You aren’t spending much, and therefore aren’t tipping much.
  • Your waiter lost it and is just trying to make it to the end of their shift as best they can.
  • You’re a time-devouring pain in the ass.

This last one doesn’t mean you’re a jerk. You most probably aren’t. You’re probably a really great person who deserves good service every time you go out; it’s just you’re going to consistently be the last priority for your server because of that time consumption part of the equation.

It’s often not the server’s fault that things have fallen apart, but the blame is thrown on them.

The take-home pay for everyone else working in that restaurant is unaffected by a bad tip.

That means if the kitchen screws up, very often the server is the only one who gets shafted. And when things go south like that the server has to make a decision: do I piss off this one person, or do I piss off everyone?

Sometimes too you just get crap service.

You’re in a great mood, you want a nice meal, you’re willing to drop some significant cash, you’re ready to order in a timely fashion, you’re friendly and happy to be there, and you just get ignored by your server for no explicable reason. This was our experience recently. We were greeted by a rude hostess and ruder manager, given painfully unfriendly and slow service, and were rewarded with poorly-cooked food. It was a complete failure, but I still left our server 20 percent.

Why The Good Tip?

My thinking is if you tip the obligatory 15 percent for a bad experience, you’re confirming the worst reality of a server’s existence. If you give them a good tip, however, you’re giving them hope in what often seems a thankless job. You’re motivating them by showing appreciation even when they know they probably didn’t give you the best experience.

At the end of the day your server is your ambassador to everyone else on the staff, and all of those people don’t need your tip. For the best experience you want an ally, not an enemy. You make allies by treating them like valuable assets, instead of servants.


Molly’s rebuttal:

I also worked as a server a couple summers during college.  It doesn’t take years of experience at fancy restaurants to realize this is a tough, thankless job. I figured that out about a week into my short serving career. I busted my ass to try to make everything as delightful as possible for every table I had, assuming they’d see how hard I was scrambling, how carefully I watched their glasses, how I hit the perfect balance of friendly yet unobtrusive, hoping they’d acknowledge all of that in the tip they left.  

Some did.  And some left me nothing but a photocopied slip of paper listing “50 things money can’t buy”. I know that little photocopied gem was not a reflection of my job performance, but rather some kind of bizarre get-out-of-jail-free card for their guilt.

15 percent tip is an adequate tip.

It’s not great and it’s definitely not ideal (ideal would be abolishing the tipping system altogether and paying servers a living wage) but barring that, 15 percent is fine. It’s kinda like those old-school report cards where the teachers just used to write “satisfactory”…not “exemplary.” 

In my mind, leaving 15 percent is like leaving the message “I hereby acknowledge that without you, this dining experience would not have been possible. Thanks for doing this very difficult, very demoralizing, very low-paying job. ” Notice I didn’t say “doing your job well/cheerfully/efficiently/etc”; just thanks for doing it.  I don’t expect to be treated like royalty every time I step into a diner or brewpub, but I do expect my server to make an effort.

No one’s going to get rich being a server or even really be able to make a sustainable career out of it, unless our entire country makes some enormous shifts in its thinking.  Look, I’m not saying “if they don’t like their job find another one”, which is often an asshole’s response to low-income workers being unhappy with their jobs.  There are reasons people work these jobs and there are legitimate reasons why they stay; I get that.  I think Matthew missed another option in his list of possible explanations for poor service:

  • The server has a bad attitude, is not cut out for the job (it’s HARD), or is just personally having a crap day and is taking it out on his/her diners.

And for that, 15 percent is more than acceptable.

The Wagon Wheel

The Wagon Wheel is a place we’ve meant to go for a long time. We’ve heard good things for years, but until we moved to Greenfield it wasn’t exactly on the way to anywhere. Now that we’ve been, several times, we admit to being fools for not making a special trip when it was further away.

plated up

The place has a lot of cozy, kitschy charm. The walls are decorated with paint-by-numbers, old clocks, and the kind of commemorative plates you would buy at gift shops in the seventies. All of that is incidental compared to the food.

Let me start with the greatest pancakes on earth

They’re called Big Wheel Pancakes and you should order them on your first visit. Let me describe them with a hypothetical conversation I imagine the creator having with his or her pancake mentor:

“What if I made a pancake like an omelet?”

“What are you talking about!? You’re crazy!”

“No, I think it would be amazing. Everyone likes to eat bites of pancake with breakfast meats or fruit. Why not just put it all in the pancake?”

“You’re drunk with power!”

“I’m doing it.”

Big Wheels for adults

The Big Wheel Pancakes are two gigantic, fluffy wonders with sausage, caramelized onions, cheddar, and baked apple pieces fried right into them. They are insane. Add a little fresh maple syrup and a generous pat of butter and you will weep openly at the table the first time you have them. You’re welcome.

Other winners are the homefries deluxe and their signature homemade corned beef hash.

Did I mention they make their own ice cream?

Well, they do, and although we’ve only tried one flavor so far, Strawberry Rhubarb, it was as good as some of our favorites from Flayvors or Mt. Tom’s. We recognize that as a wild boast, so are stopping short of declaring all their ice cream is that good until we’ve tried a lot more flavors. Expect an update before the end of our summer research.

Have you been to Gill lately?

Craft Breweries Can Learn From Wineries

A little over a year ago I lived in Northern California. I worked for the two years I was there for a Digital Marketing Agency, and we had several wineries as clients. I cut my teeth in social media and blogger outreach on those accounts. I was impressed with how engaged most were with the people vocal about their wine online. They regarded those conversations as an essential connection to both existing and perspective fans.

You are not a product

I was on a conference call with a winery once, and someone used the word “product” to describe the wine in a campaign we were all working on. Someone from the winery interrupted the conversation. They said that “product” lost the importance of the relationship between the winery and its advocates, and shouldn’t be used. The word reduced things to a financial transaction.

I thought they were being melodramatic. I thought, Come on! Your wine is a product. The more I thought about it later though, the more I agreed with, even admired, the person who’d stopped the meeting over the use of the word. The winery was obviously interested in increasing sales. That’s why they’d hired us. At the core of everything though, was a sincere passion for the wine they made. They realized their fans shared that passion and that’s what made those conversations on Facebook and Twitter and Instagram so important.

Sadly, I don’t see that level of online engagement from many craft breweries.

I met some amazing brewers at the 2014 and 2015 Beer Blogger’s Conference, and some lovely Reps at various tastings. They’ve all been generous with their time and their beer. I even had a long conversation in a grocery store with a driver for a local brewery a few months back. He helped me pick out a beer for a dinner I was making, and it wasn’t even from his brewery! In short, I adore brewers. They’re the coziest people in the world when you meet them in person. The problem is their engagement on social media is often one-sided, robotic, sterile even. It’s like being stuck on a service call with a digital recording that never connects you to a real person.

A model social media citizen

Here’s where numerous wineries excel at forming online relationships. Let’s look at La Crema Winery. They found our blog on Twitter. They, a winery, followed us, a beer blog. We were surprised, but checked them out and followed back. What the hell. We like wine! We look for their wines on menus now and try them when we see them. Although we definitely drink more beer than wine, as a result of their engagement, we actively listen to what they have to say.

Take a look at their Twitter account: La Crema Winery

When you look at their feed you see that they’re following a good percentage of their fans back. They’re also re-tweeting things those fans care about, some of which don’t even have anything to do with their wine. That sort of engagement shows they see themselves as part of a bigger picture, that their fans are more than just revenue.

I’m tired of talking about me, why don’t you talk about me?

Now let’s look at one of our favorite breweries: 21st Amendment Brewery

We followed their feed for a while, because we buy their beer and are interested in what they’re doing. Like a lot of breweries though, we no longer follow them. Why? Well, none of our mentions or likes or re-tweets resulted in any sort of conversation. We still buy their beer and love it, but as far as social media goes, what’s the point in following someone who never interacts? It’s like inviting someone to a party and all they want to do is stand on a chair and recite poetry.

When you look at their Twitter feed you see a huge fan base, but they’re following the tiniest fraction of their supporters in return. They’ve liked a bunch of posts, but every last one of those seem to be about them.

There’s nothing really wrong with that. Oprah doesn’t follow anyone. Neither do a lot of wineries for that matter. It’s a totally legit way to make use of social media. It’s just not interesting to people actively using social media. The active users are people looking for information to entertain and educate themselves (yes, it actually is used for that too). When those people find something that excites them, they share it with their followers. The passive people just there to collect information from your passive Twitter account aren’t terribly influential. They’re not getting the word out.

Ultimately, everyone is promoting something on social media. If that’s all you’re doing though, you’re missing an opportunity to connect with your biggest advocates. I’ve never heard anyone say, “I saw this great advertisement on Twitter today.”

White Barn Inn

For the first time in a long while I’ve made a New Year’s Resolution, and it all started with our trip to the White Barn Inn in Kennebunkport. Our friends Mike and Craig took us there for a welcome back to New England dining extravaganza and it was amazing. Before our visit I was excited about the food, but worried I might not fit into either of my suit jackets (The White Barn Inn has a dress code). I left with tight pants, a satisfied smile, and a desire to dress like an adult. No hoodies in public for me in 2015.

We’ve been back on the East Coast for a month and have already experienced plenty of snow. Our trip to The White Barn Inn was in the middle of an (albiet mild) storm. I’m usually a Nervous Nelly in poor weather, but Mike has a new Jeep and once we arrived the weather made for a perfect backdrop.

The White Barn Inn

Old Fashion Perfection

The interior is amazing. For Five Star dining I expected at least a little stuffiness, but it just isn’t what the place is about. I should have known, it’s right there in the name. It really did used to be a barn. It’s definitely elegant now, but like a celebrity interview that leaves you thinking, “you know, that George Clooney is just an everyday guy.” We were orbited by at least 3 different servers, but I still felt like I was being entertained by friends.

The Food

My favorite thing about Prix Fixe eating are all the little surprises. We were given a little amuse-bouche to start: a single house-made tortellini on a bed of finely diced peekytoe crab with a corn and red pepper sauce.

The Appetizers

I started with Pan Roast New England Quail Breast with Foie Gras Farce, Mushroom Ragout, Madeira Gel, and Cranberry Sauce. It stood out on the menu to me, but sometimes quail can adhere to its cute little bones and I didn’t want to get all down home Southern boy in a fancy place and have to eat with my hands. Our head waiter though named it as his favorite, so I went for it. It wound up being my favorite thing of the night. The tiny bird surrendered its tasty morsels without a fight.

Molly had a Trio of Quebec Foie Gras; Seared on Apple Compote, Terrine and Praline with Sauternes Gelee. It came with a petite toasted brioche that was a nice surprise for us both. The signature element was as buttery rich as expected, but not at all overwhelming or heavy.

Mike and Craig both got the Lobster Spring Roll with Carrot, Daikon Radish and Snow Pea in a Thai Inspired Spicy Sweet Sauce. I regret that I didn’t steal a bite, but it was early on and I was saving myself for the next courses.

Intermezzo

My next course was a close second place to the quail, although it didn’t photograph well. It was the Ragout of Braised Oxtail with Crispy Horseradish Potato. It looked like Beef Stew basically, but was bolder and more robust. The single square of horseradish tot was as center soft as it was crispy on the exterior, giving way like a good crème brûlée. It was delicious, but also thankfully modestly portioned. I was happy to share and still had plenty of steam for the Main Course. Molly went even lighter with the Sweet Corn Ice Cream, a simple and not overly sweet palette-cleansing pleaser.

Main Course

I went with another favorite of the head waiter’s, Seared Seed Crusted Venison Loin, Braised Red Cabbage, Bartlett Pear Purée and Poire William Cocoa Sauce. It was near perfect and would have missed any critique were it not for my stellar start. The pears were exemplary specimens, but I found them a little unadorned and neglected after the creativity of the similarly simple elements like the cranberry and potato of my first two courses.

I had the same opinion about the bread. Both the pear and the house made bread seemed like a missed opportunity. They were good, but didn’t seem interested in greatness. They stood in the shadow of more talented siblings and were as invisible in the detail of memory as the silverware.

Molly disagrees with my feelings on the bread.

Molly’s choice for Mains was Seared Local Halibut with a Pecan Butter Glaze, Arugula Pureé, Tempura Cauliflower, Potato Pancake and Red Wine Shallot Gel. I would have been just as happy with hers as the Venison. I was particularly impressed with the cauliflower, which rarely gets me excited even when battered and fried. It had the same sort of give as my horseradish potato and the same unlikely depth of flavor. The halibut was perfect and the light sprinkle of arugula was ever-present without being overbearing. I had plenty on my plate, but didn’t refuse several repeat tastings of the halibut.

Dessert

This was the only course that I would describe as over the top. We had a gratis “pre-dessert” (that’s a thing?) that was a generous dollop of chocolate mousse layered with a surprisingly nice pairing of fig jam. There’s a debate between Molly and me over the third layer. She remembers a second mousse and I remember salted caramel. It was not as dainty a portion as the amuse-bouche and wouldn’t have left me feeling cheated out of a course if that had been it. That wasn’t it though. We hadn’t officially started.

In my opinion Mike won the dessert event hands down. His Maine Blueberry Soufflé with Buttermilk Anglaise and “Blueberry Crisp” Ice Cream was flawless. It walked a razor’s edge of light and decadent without falling firmly in either camp. It was especially ideal after the heavy surprise round one of the sweets.

I went against my better judgment and ordered the Gingerbread Layered Cheesecake, Cranberry Sauce and Sorbet with Sea Salt Brittle. I hoped it would be of the light and fluffy Italian variety, but was as doorstop heavy as the densest New York Style Cheesecake. Don’t get me wrong, it was absolutely delicious, but with everything that came before it I was defeated halfway through and couldn’t close the deal. Too much!

Molly had an off-menu Crêpe Suzette Soufflé special that was a photo finish second place to the blueberry soufflé. I thought Craig’s Carrot Cake, White Chocolate “Flex”, Goat’s Milk Ice Cream, Candied Walnuts, Dehydrated Pineapple Tuille and Orange Meringue was also fantastic. It was just my own dessert that came on a little too strong for me.

But wait, there’s more! With our coffee we were given a tiered tray of four “bite-sized” desserts that were all lovely, but not particularly light. There was a pecan tartlet that had all the gravity and weight of grandma’s pie, but also a jellied orange slice that was no sucker punch, it just really hit the spot.

Just when we thought we were out, they pulled us back in! When the check rolled around we all got a orange chocolate chip muffin-cookie that, were it the beginning of a different evening in front of the TV, I could’ve eaten a dozen of without batting an eye and felt only pure glee.

Still, A Perfect Experience

Molly and I had an incredible time and will definitely find an excuse to go back someday. The company, the decor, the service, and of course the food were all remarkable. Special thanks to our friends for the treat!